Monday, 28 November 2011

Day 154 25 Nov Fri Madurai to Kanyakumari

We get off the bus in Madurai; wet, itchy and bleary eyed at 5.30am after a very uncomfortable night on the bus. It is still raining. We manage to find our way from the roadside to the correct bit of the bus station and board another bus at 6am to take us further south still to Cape Comorin - the southernmost tip of India where three seas meet in the town of Kanyakumari. This is another local bus and there are many stops and comings and goings along the way. The time passes slowly, at times we doze, catch up on journals and watch the scenery change as we pass through towns and villages. We do stop once along the way and experience a roadside toilet and chai stop. 
 
We all agree it is probably the worst toilet experience we have had on this trip - we almost needed a boat to get across - but the coffee is hot and very welcome - and at 6p for 2 cups a real bargain! We get back on and bump and trundle on.
 
Half an hour away from our destination, David stands up at the wrong moment as the bus lurches and gashes his head - much to the consternation of the other passengers and the conductor. There is quite a lot of blood and an inch cut.
We patch it up as best we can and we reach the end of the road. Literally!. Taking pity on the last passengers on the bus, we are dropped off outside the hotel in Kanyakumari we have planned to stay in -the Tamil Nadu government hotel. We trudge into the reception and it is clear from the start that they do not want us here. the choice of available rooms seems to lessen at every turn and the prices are vastly inflated. We get the message and seek alternative lodgings. We settle, eventually, on another hotel, stretching the budget for somewhere which looks half decent given we have had a rough night.There is no warm friendly feeling about this very impersonal place though and after finding there is no hot water except between the hours of 5.30 amd 7.30am David makes the decision to leave. We have discovered in the meantime that not only are our bags wet, but also the contents are soaking - all our clothes and trainers. We consult the guide book and commandeer an auto rickshaw who takes us to a couple of places which are immediately ruled out. In desperation we go to the Sea View Hotel (a grand looking place) hoping that the rooms here would not be grim or out of our price range.
Something about our bedraggled little family obviously touched the receptionist who immediatly takes pity on us, slashes the rack rate to what we can afford and even throws in free breakfast. Magically the manager appears with cold drinks and an escort to our room. Our bags are delivered, along with a kettle, water and drinks. The effecient housekeeping team arrive with an extra bed and collect all our wet clothes to launder over night. The restaurant has a wide range of delicious food and the staff couldnt be kinder.

Finally we are having some good fortune in India!  We pass the rest of the day drying out and recovering. It rains intermittantly though and we dodge a rain shower to explore a little way before tiredness sets in again and we return to the comfort of the hotel, supper and bed!

Day 153 24 Nov Thurs Pondicherry overnight to Madurai

It is raining - and has been solidly all night. The end of the monsoon rains - but it rather curtails our morning plans of a walk on the rocky beach.
Instead we beginan exhausting morning of autorickshaw rides to the train station where we are unable to buy a ticket for several days and then several bus agencies. Finally we find Mr Parveen who sells us a ticket for late the same day to go further south still. It means that we cant stay a second night in Pondicherry - but this does save us a nights accomodation. We rush back to Kailash and checkout, leaving our bags with the very kind owner for the rest of the day.
 


 
 The girls had made an impression on the Italian restaurant owner who invites them to swim in the rooftop pool in the afternoon. Sadly there is torrential rain - but this doesnt stop them!
 
We eat another Italian supper and then catch our bus to Madurai at 10.30pm. Unfortunately it is still raining and the bus is very wet inside. Our bags are soaked through and the girls are devoured by the mosquitos as they sleep squished on the slightly damp seats. It is not a pleasant experience at all!

Day 152 23 Nov Weds Chennai to Puducherry

We attempt breakfast before catching an auto rickshaw to the bus stop.
 
 This is an interesting bamboo shack where we watch the world go by amidst piles of rubbish, flies and cows! We board the bus and travel the scenic East Coast route to Pondicherry - a cosmopolitan enclave a couple of hours south of Chennai.
Unusually for us we arrive and book straight into the first guest house we visit -  It is a great find, even though we have to have two double rooms. After lunch we stroll through the streets just taking in the atmosphere and trying to acclimatise to the Indian way of life. Pondicherry is is a former French colony and  a remarkable degree of French influence exists to this date. The entire town is divided into 2 sections, the French Quarter (Ville Blanche or 'White town') and the Indian quarter (Ville Noire or 'Black Town'). Many streets still retain their French names, and French style villas are a common sight in Puducherry. In the French quarter, the buildings are typically colonial style with long compounds and stately walls. The Indian quarter consists of houses lined with verandas and houses with large doors and grills. After lunch we stroll through the streets just taking in the atmosphere and trying to acclimatise to the Indian way of life.
   
 We stop for a drink and a very hazy sunset (we didnt see it) at a cafe on the beach before returning to the Kailash and  then out for supper at a rooftop Italian restaurant where David enjoys beer from a teapot! We later discover that this is a cunning way of getting round the stringent licensing laws!

Day 151 22 Nov Tues Chennai, India

We land in Chennai - later than scheduled but safe in the knowledge that we would not have to face the bombarment from the awaiting crowd of taxi drivers which we had been warned about. David has booked a transfer to our hotel, just south of Chennai, where we will recoup after our long night and plan our next few days. We head out into the Indian air and try and locate a sign with our name on attached to "Mr Gordon".
 
We search every sign and draw a blank. We walk to the domestic arrival area and search here to but still nothing. 
 
 After an hour or fruitless wandering up and down dodging the hoards we find a phone and call the hotel - they are not expecting us until 10pm - oh dear...After another half an hour Mr Gordon finally materialises and we are loaded up into the minivan and driven at top speed through the backstreets of Chennai. We travel open mouthed most of the way, in a mixture of shock, awe and wonder and disbelief (metaphorically open mouthed as some of the smells were eye watering to say the least!) We pass by beautiful temples, ornately carved statues festooned with garlands of flowers, cows and goats wandering the streets, shacks and shanty towns sitting next to more modern brick buildings and past several street stalls selling meat, vegetables and some very smelly fly laden fish stands.


 

At one point we cross a canal, which on the face of it looked really beautiful, looking the other way up stream David points out the open sewer pipe discharging apace straight into it (hence the pong) and the piles and piles and piles of rubbish sitting on every corner, of every street and in almost every doorway.
 We finally turn and drive parallel with the beach and our nostrils are assaulted by a new whiff of fish - this time from the fishing village and boats on the beach next to the hotel - AOG Villas. This is a bizarre place - it has the potential to be something really special - but falls short in almost every area. The location is obviously in its infancy tourist wise and the hotel is onviously mid refurb. There are wires hanging from sockets in the lobby and rooms with open doors with piled up furniture inside. We are shown to our room - a suite (we have been upgraded-ahem!) On the face of it - it looks ok - but there then follows a series of discoveries: the sliding door doesnt lock, there is a pane of glass out of the bathroom window, the tap doesnt work (nor does the shower), the fridge os full of ants, the bedside table is still covered in sugar granules from the last guest and is also crawling with ants - and the list goes on. David summons Mr G and he arrives with bug spray and we vacate to the pool. This, we discover is sited next to the generator room and the noise is deafening, also the surface of the water is awash with leaves and twigs so is also a no go. 
 
 We  take a (very short) stroll on the beach, but it is so laden with litter, animal (we hope) poo and broken glass, coupled with a strong "fishy" smell that we give up.
 
We make for the attached hotel restaurant for our lunch. We havent eaten since the previous night and are now 5 hours behind due to the time difference) We select some simple food from the menu and the waiter says "no", we make further selections and the waiter days "no". At this point David loses his sense of humour... and stalks off to the hotel reception. We are offered a full refund - a free night accomodation - and the assurance that everything will be available tonight. We return to the room and snack on crisps, crackers and an apple - the only food we have - while trying to make a decision about what to do next. We have no idea where we are (relative to the city), we dont have our "India" bearings yet, we are all tired and hungry and Nicole (atleast) feels a little trapped. After some discussion we stay put and use the rest of the afternoon to organise our next stop. 

A change of scene is called for and so we brave the outside world again to see if we can locate any sign of a general store where we might be able to buy a cold drink and something edible. Actually it is the best thing we could have done as the fresh air does us all good. We are accompanied some of the way by a local cow which had been wandering on the beach.
  The girls have fun studying the rangoli patterns drawn on the ground outside many of the doors we pass. These are left over from the recent Diwali festival.  These are decorative designs made on floors of living rooms and courtyards during Hindu festivals and are meant as sacred welcoming areas for the Hindu deities.The ancient symbols have been passed on through the ages, from each generation to the next, thus keeping both the art form and the tradition alive. The patterns are typically created with materials, including colored rice, dry flour, sand or even flower petals.
 

 
We manage to find some signs of life and a shop and we stock up on cold drinks and snacks before making our way back to the hotel. The evening meal is, unsurprisingly, not much better than the lunch and so we retire for the night in the hope of something better in the morning!




Day 150 - 21 Nov Mon KK to KL

 We say our goodbyes to Asa, Kiran and Jay and head to the airport, via the post office to send our last box of bits home. We drop the car back and check in. OUr flight passes without a hitch and we arrive in Kuala Lumpur and board the shuttle bus to the Tune Hotel, located just across the road from the Low Cost Carrier terminal. It is a very basic affair, with just one large double bed wedged into a teeny box room - but as we are here for less than 12 hours, we dont need much more. We pass the time by catching the shuttle to the main terminal  to buy the Lonely Planet India book which we have been unable to find in Malaysia. We eat our supper at the little cafe next door to Tune before a very long night for David and Nicole! We have lost our phone and therefore our alarm clock. This means that we take it in turns to sit up for an hour while the other sleeps (ish) at the end of the bed until 4.30am when we make our way to the airport for our India flight.

Day 148 and 149 - 19 and 20 Nov - Sepilok and the Orang Utangs

HURRAY! WE HAVE MADE IT! FINALLY! One of the initial places on the original "must do" list - Borneo, Sepilok and the amazing Orang Utans. Once found throughout Southeast Asia, this species of ape now survives only in small populations across the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. The orang utan is the largest tree dwelling mammal.Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre was founded in 1964, to rehabilitate orphan orang utans. The site is 43 sq km of protected land at the edge of Kabili Sepilok Forest Reserve and today around 60 to 80 orang utans are living free in the reserve. The facility provides medical care for orphaned and confiscated orang utans as well as dozens of other wildlife species and there are also around 25 young orphan orang utans are housed in the nurseries, in addition to those free in the reserve.
A boardwalk leads us to a viewing gallery and feeding platform where the apes are fed milk and bananas twice a day at 10.00am and 3.00pm by rangers and our ticket allows us to stay and watch both slots! In fact we have such an amazing time on the first day we pay again and come back the following morning before we head back to Kota Kinabalu. At this point we should let the pictures speak for themselves - we took hundreds but these are some of the best! The first day....
 
   
 
 
 And the second...