Day 119 21 Oct Chiang Mai Doi Suthep and the Scorpion tailed boat cruise

 

Today we are venturing out to see Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep a Buddhist temple on the outskirts of Chiang Mai, often referred to as "Doi Suthep" although this is actually the name of the mountain it is located on. It is a 15 km drive twiating and turning up  the mountain from the city and is a sacred site to many Thai people.

 

Wat Doi Suthep is approached by a steep flight of 300 stairs flanked by green trees and guarded by 16th-century Naga (snake) figures.

The original founding of the temple remains a legend and there are a few varied versions. The temple is said to have been founded in 1383 when the first chedi was built. Over time the temple has expanded, and been made to look more extravagant with many more holy shrines added. A road to the temple was first built in 1935. According to legend, a monk named Sumanathera from Sukhothai had a dream; God told him to go to Pang Cha and look for a relic. Sumanathera is said to have found a bone, which many claim was Buddha's shoulder bone. The relic displayed magical powers; it glowed, it was able to vanish, it could move itself and replicate itself. 

Sumanathera took the relic to King Dharmmaraja who ruled the Sukhothai. The king made offerings and hosted a ceremony when Sumanathera arrived. However the relic displayed no abnormal characteristics, and the king, doubtful of the relic's authenticity, told Sumanathera to keep it. However, King Nu Naone of the Lanna Kingdom heard of the relic and offered the monk to take it to him instead. In 1368 with Dharmmaraja's permission, Sumanathera took the relic to what is now Lamphun, in northern Thailand. The relic apparently split in two, one piece was the same size, the other was smaller than the original. The smaller piece of the relic was enshrined at a temple in Suandok.

 

The other piece was placed by the King on the back of a white elephant which was released in the jungle. The elephant is said to have climbed up Doi Suthep, at the time called Doi Aoy Chang (Sugar Elephant Mountain), trumpeted three times before dying at the site. It was interpreted as a sign and King Nu Naone ordered the construction of a temple at the site.

Enclosed by a frescoed cloister, the upper terrace is home to a tightly-packed complex of small shrines, bells, golden umbrellas and Buddha statues. Shoes must be removed and shoulders must be covered before entering this sacred area. While we are exploring the various areas we are beckoned over by the Buddhist Monk in residence for a cotton wrist bracelet and a blessing. Nicole has to go to the non monk for her bracelet as she is not allowed to touch and converse with the monk proper!

In the center of the upper terrace is the great chedi, a 16th-century expansion of the 14th-century original. The dazzling gold-plated temple is modeled on Wat Phra That Haripunjaya in Lamphun, formerly the greatest temple in the Chiang Mai region.

 We donate some money to the temple fund and receive a flower, a couple of candles and some incense sticks to offer  - we all take some time, deep in our own thoughts to reflect quietly.

Rowan couldnt resist bonging all the temple bells which hang in enormous number around the edge of the temple or the enormous gong hanging near the way out!

 

The odd looking creature here is the guardian at the entrance of one temple and is a combination of fish, chameleon and lion!

Sadly we have another trip booked for the afternoon so we must make our way back down the hill side... and those 300 or so steps!

As always there are a ready supply of street food sellers at the bottom and the girls share a hot corn on the cob with butter and salt and a fresh waffle with chocolate sauce! Yum!

 

 "Cruising  the Ping River with the  Chiang Mai’s  unique boats seeing an old town heaven." - is the published title of the afternoon's trip! In other words a mini cruise down the river in a scorpion tail boat - hosted by Mr Ting Tong, who proves to be a fantastically entertaining guide!

For hundreds of years Scorpion-Tailed boats served as cargo boats sailing between the northern region of Thailand and Bangkok. Sadly when the northern railway-route arrived at Chiang Mai  100 years ago they disappeared from the river. Today they serve tourists cruising along the Ping River. Initially the first boats were built in the 18th century by a local shipbuilder inspired by a  boat-shaped coconut shell floating in the river with a scorpion on it. They are also eco friendly - The engines run on bio fuel instead of diesel which pollutes the river, they have no toilets on board and are much quieter  The river cruise offers views of many historical sites along the banks and we float gently pasta white chedi that locals call Gew ,a girdered-footbridge spanning the river between the oldest trader community of Wat Gate and Warorot Market built by Brunel.  Also Chiang Mai’s oldest shopping centre, the Chang pier (where historically hundreds of elephants were used it haul logs from the river) and the site of the city’s first bridge made of bamboo, the first Christian church and the first post office.

The evidence of the recent heavy rains is evident as we cruise up and down, sandbags line the banks and the waterlevel line can be clearly seen. The bridge piers and banks strewn with piles of rubbish and sticks swept along on the rising waters. It is these waters which have travelled to Bangkok and are now contributing to the terrible rising floodwaters there. Our guide, Ting Tong, tells us that 2 weeks previously he was not sailing as the water was so high that he could not pass under any of the bridges.

We continue our afternoon with a tour of the Scorpion Village. Ting Tong proudly takes us on a tour of what is left of a small complex of houses and his cottage garden complete with frog farm - although all the frogs appear to have escaped!

The devastation of the recent flood water is clear to see and Ting Tong confesses that he has no idea how he is ever going to clear the mud from his land, yet he still smiles and just does what he can. Actually very humbling.

 

 The afternoon concludes with a plate of delicious Thai sticky rice and mango and a glass of refreshing ice  cold lychee juice.