Day 157 28 Nov Mon Cochin

 

 We board the ferry from Ernakulam where we are staying across to Fort Cochin and the delightful Dutch Palace. Cochin has been drawing traders and explorers to its shores for over 600 years and the result is a blend of ancient Portuguese, Dutch and English style nestled side by side with Indian architecture and culture. The Mattancherry or Dutch Palace was presented to India in 1655 by the Portuguese as a present to the Raja of Kochi as a goodwill gesture to secure trading privelleges.

The Dutch renovated in 1663, hence the name. Photography is forbidden but we did manage to sneak a shot or two of the beautiful,intrically detailed murals showing scenes from Hindu stories - Ramayana and Mahabarata.

David sadly begins to feel the effects of the heat and feels decidedly unwell so we stop quickly in the spice market to see and sniff the many sacks of spices on offer here. The smells are beautiful and we try and name as many of the spices as we can by sight and smell! Cinnamon, pepper, star anise, mustard seed, cumin, cardamom, black cardamom, mace, nutmeg to name but a few.

 

David retires to bed for the rest of the afternoon and in the evening Nicole and the girls visit the Kathakali Performance Space - a short auto rickshaw ride from the hotel. "Katha" means story, "kali" means play - literally storytelling through a series of intricate and complex dance moves performed by one male dancer. One of the oldest Kathakali theatres in Kerala with an emphasis on the religious and philosphical roots of the art which begain around the time of Shakespeare. 

 The performances are the dramatisation based on Hindu epics the Ramayana, Mahabarata and Puranas, covering the perennial themes of good and evil, frailty and courage, war and peace and poverty and prosperity.  As we arrive we watch the first part of the performance which is the preparation of the actors and the putting on of make up. Each colour and shape is symbolic, e.g. the three part symbol in the forehead to represent the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, the green cololur for agriculture. Every facial feature is exagerrated so as to make the face appear bigger to transform the actor into a god like character. The final part of this process involves the preparation and application of a paper beard which is expertly cut and positioned. All the paint is natural and coconut oil based, the black is burnt coconut oil, the white  and the glue has a rice base. It is fascinating to watch and there is a real air of reverence as each stage is completed. In fact this type of storytelling is seen more as a form of religious worship than merely entertainment.

 

 

There is a lone drummer and a solitary singer who accompany the actor who tell the story with precise movements, the most amazing facial expressions and mudras or hand gestures.

A lady joins the actor on stage and explains a little of the roots of Kathakali and the various stories before another actor demonstrates the basic moves.

 A lamp is placed on stage to signify the beginning of the story, the curtain is raised, the drumming begins and the actor (now in the most beautiful and elaborate costume, head dress and wig makes his entrance and the story begins.

 

There are three scenes and each is quite hard to follow - although we do pick up several of the basic moves we have been shown. Although we dont know the story and cant understand the singing it is an amazing spectacle and we are glad we came.