Thursday, 8 December 2011

Day 159 30 Nov Wed Mysore

We reach Mysore in the early morning (around 5am) - sadly no animals as the hills are too misty as we pass. We walk the short distance to the hotel and settle in before heading to the balcony restaurant for an early breakfast.  It is said that if you havent been to Mysore you havent been to South India - it is an ancient city with 600 years of history. It is one of the most flamboyant places in India and know for its glittering royal heritage, bustling markets, many monuments and cosmopolitan culture. It is also a thriving centre for sandalwood and silk production which it markets globally.


 Amongst the grandest of  India's royal buildings is our first stop and we head off to explore the beautiful Mahrajah's Palace - Sadly the original wooden building was destroyed by fir in 1897 and the one on show now is the 1912 building by the English architect Henry Irwin. We comission the services of a local guide who explains the most important and interesting features  of the building - sadly no cameras allowed inside and unlike the Cochin Palace we are scanned and security to checked and almost frisked to ensure that we are not carrying photographic equipment. Ironically once inside there doesnt seem to be any limitation on phones being used as cameras, which is slightly galling to those of us that have complied with the rules! The whole building is a combination of Hindu, Islamic and English styles - a real kalaidecope of stained glass, mirrors,and bright colours - very over the top! The interior decor is also hugely embellished, every piece of timber and stone work is elaborately carved and there are beautiful crystal thrones, murano glass dressers and enoromous silver panelled doors. There is also a series of murals depicting life in Mysore in the time of the Edwardian Raj, spookily some are painted in 3D and 2D which has the effect that no matter where you stand to admire the art works the eyes, animals heads and shoes all point towards you. All however are painted in terrific detail and are truly breathtaking. Also within the grounds are a collection of bronze sculptures - most by English and Scottish artists and the girls take a real shine to one of the six jaguars placed around the outside prominentory. 


 
 
 We are all "palaced out" for one day and also slighty jaded after the night bus so we opt for an easier return journey to the hotel!


 In the late afternoon we wander into the town to the Devaraja Market - a lively bazaar that combines the ancient and modern face of India.
It is about 125 years old and contains 15 million flowers, fruits and vegetables. Local traders make and sell traditional items such as flower garlands and there are bags of spices and conical piles of kum kum - coloured powder used for bindi dots, painting and dye.
 
 
 We wander down the little lanes and get swept along by the hustle and bustle of such an interesting place - the girls naturally get all the attention and are presented with fruit and flowers and lots of conversations along the way. Cows wander through and munch on the rubbish and no one turns a head! Every piece of fruit and vegetable is carefully displayed and beautifully presented and everything is available to try before you buy! Tiegan samples the most pith free and delicious pomegranate we have ever seen and it is expertly prepared for us by the stall owner.
 
We also get to smell some of the locally produced essential oils! Sniff tastic!
 



Wednesday, 7 December 2011

Day 158 29 Nov Tues Cochin

This has to go down on record as our worst and most emotionally charged day on the trip. We are disappointed that our plans for the day to return to Fort Cochin and the sights we missed yesterday are thwarted  by a regional strike from 6am to 6pm  where everything is closed, no taxis, tuk tuks or public transport. We are confined to the hotel and cabin fever and frustration set in. Tempers become frayed and eventually we all melt down and explode - mostly at each other.  


Eventually after tantrums, tears and then lots of hugs we all calm down and venture out for a stroll in the eerily quiet local streets. As 6pm draws closer there are signs of life and traffic starts to appear and shops begin to open. As we walk through the back streets we are again confronted with the piles of rubbish and mess left everywhere. 


 
Mercifully, after an early supper, the time to leave and board another overnight bus arrives and we pile into an auto (tuk tuk) and trundle off to the bus station saying goodbye to our wonderful hotel doorman - who looks exactly like a very distinguished Indian gentleman!

The girls immediatley make friends with the driver and conductor who agree to help them animal spot in the early morning as we approach Mysore and offer them the front seats to do so! We drive for an hour or so before stopping at a little parade of restaurants where we have a snack and our last loo stop until the morning. The bus isnt full so the girls stretch out on the back seats and we pass a relatively comfortable night on the road.

Day 157 28 Nov Mon Cochin

 

 We board the ferry from Ernakulam where we are staying across to Fort Cochin and the delightful Dutch Palace. Cochin has been drawing traders and explorers to its shores for over 600 years and the result is a blend of ancient Portuguese, Dutch and English style nestled side by side with Indian architecture and culture. The Mattancherry or Dutch Palace was presented to India in 1655 by the Portuguese as a present to the Raja of Kochi as a goodwill gesture to secure trading privelleges.

The Dutch renovated in 1663, hence the name. Photography is forbidden but we did manage to sneak a shot or two of the beautiful,intrically detailed murals showing scenes from Hindu stories - Ramayana and Mahabarata.

David sadly begins to feel the effects of the heat and feels decidedly unwell so we stop quickly in the spice market to see and sniff the many sacks of spices on offer here. The smells are beautiful and we try and name as many of the spices as we can by sight and smell! Cinnamon, pepper, star anise, mustard seed, cumin, cardamom, black cardamom, mace, nutmeg to name but a few.
 
David retires to bed for the rest of the afternoon and in the evening Nicole and the girls visit the Kathakali Performance Space - a short auto rickshaw ride from the hotel. "Katha" means story, "kali" means play - literally storytelling through a series of intricate and complex dance moves performed by one male dancer. One of the oldest Kathakali theatres in Kerala with an emphasis on the religious and philosphical roots of the art which begain around the time of Shakespeare. 

 The performances are the dramatisation based on Hindu epics the Ramayana, Mahabarata and Puranas, covering the perennial themes of good and evil, frailty and courage, war and peace and poverty and prosperity.  As we arrive we watch the first part of the performance which is the preparation of the actors and the putting on of make up. Each colour and shape is symbolic, e.g. the three part symbol in the forehead to represent the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, the green cololur for agriculture. Every facial feature is exagerrated so as to make the face appear bigger to transform the actor into a god like character. The final part of this process involves the preparation and application of a paper beard which is expertly cut and positioned. All the paint is natural and coconut oil based, the black is burnt coconut oil, the white  and the glue has a rice base. It is fascinating to watch and there is a real air of reverence as each stage is completed. In fact this type of storytelling is seen more as a form of religious worship than merely entertainment.
 

 

There is a lone drummer and a solitary singer who accompany the actor who tell the story with precise movements, the most amazing facial expressions and mudras or hand gestures.

A lady joins the actor on stage and explains a little of the roots of Kathakali and the various stories before another actor demonstrates the basic moves.

 A lamp is placed on stage to signify the beginning of the story, the curtain is raised, the drumming begins and the actor (now in the most beautiful and elaborate costume, head dress and wig makes his entrance and the story begins.


 
There are three scenes and each is quite hard to follow - although we do pick up several of the basic moves we have been shown. Although we dont know the story and cant understand the singing it is an amazing spectacle and we are glad we came.


Saturday, 3 December 2011

Day 156 27 Nov Sun Kanyakamari to Cochin


 
Time to leave the southern tip of India and start our trip up the west coast towards Alleppy on the train - our first in India. We have been unable to buy train tickets for our long journeys as tickets go on sale for 90 days before the day of travel and so are largely sold out with only  the odd one available for the most basic of classes, if at all. It is still raining, we are growing webbed feet and getting thoroughly fed up with the wet. As we sit on the train David and Nicole contemplate 24 hours in Alleppy where we have planned to hire a rice boat and cruise the backwaters. This is an expensive part of our journey and the idea of spending a considerable chunk of our dwindling budget on this to sit in the rain is rapidly losing its' appeal. We make a spur of the moment family decision to stay on the train and bypass Alleppy  heading straight for Cochin.
 
It is a very long day with  not very much to eat and the girls enjoy a delicious meal, Indian style with no cutlery, at the hotel restaurant when we finally arrive. 

Day 155 26 Nov Sat Kanyakamari

So, here we are in Kanyakumari -  also sometimes referred to as Cape Comorin and located at the southernmost tip of the Indian Peninsula, the geographical end of the Indian mainland and the confluence of  three water-bodies – the Arabian Sea, the Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean. We spend the day dipping in and out of the rain - but manage to visit the main sites of interest - all the while dodging the bus loads of Indian pilgrims making their way to worship at the The Kumari Amman or the Kanyakumari Temple after which the town is named.


We begin our walkabout with a hunt for a working cashpoint and end up, very definitely, on the wrong side of town. We get our first taste and glimpse of apparant absolute poverty as we pass by several little groups of gaunt looking women coupled with small children, some naked, some in rags. The older children run alongside us, pawing at our arms and hold out cupped hands or little metal dishes. It is the hardest thing ever to walk on without even an acknowledgement and we turn a corner and have a "team hug" out of sight. Working ATM located we now have to find our way back and, so as to avoid the begging children (whom tourists are asked not to encourage but to instead donate to exisiting charity projects) we take a side turning in the general direction of the sea and hope that we will eventually find our way back.  We are amazed at the size of this rat which thankfully was already dead when we pass by!


 It is an interesting route back through the less well travelled side and back streets and straight though the middle of a very basic housing area belonging to the local fishing village. The water here though is foul, black, laden with oil and rubbish. and most astonishingly several enormous and very prominent white catholic churches. 
 



 
 We shelter in the doorway of one church on the shoreline while another rainstorm passes and look out towards the two most prominent manmade features of Kanyakumari sited on two rocky islets just off the shore. The rock where Swami Vivekananda is said to have meditated for three days is now home to a memorial building  built in 1970. On the smaller island there is a huge statue of Tamil saint-poet Thiruvalluvar and one of the biggest statues in Asia.  At a gigantic 133 feet (41 m) tall to reflect his famous 133 chapter poem "Thirukal" - erected in 2000 and the work of more than 5000 sculptors. One of the rocks called Sri Padhaparai is said to bear the footprints of a virgin goddess.

 
On the shoreline is the  bright pink Gandhi Memorial has been built on the spot where the urn containing the Mahatma's ashes was kept for public viewing before immersion. Resembling central Indian Hindu temples in form, the memorial was designed in such a way that on Mahatma Gandhi's birthday, 2 October, the first rays of the sun fall on the exact place where his ashes were kept.

The Kumari Amman temple, situated overlooking the shore, attract tourists from all over the world. Legend says that the virgin goddess Kumari single handedly conquered demons and secured the freedom of the world. The sparkling diamond nose-ring of the deity is said to be visible even from the sea. David (as all men do) has to remove his shirt to enter as is customary to do at a temple dedicated to goddesses, and we were not allowed to take our shoes or camera inside. We are escorted, at break neck speed, by a temple worker and shown the main sections - including the beautifully ornate goddess image covered in sparkly jewels and receive our  sandalwood mark from the priest. 

The adjoining ghat and beach is full of hindu pilgrims bathing in the crashing waves of three oceans, and we stand in the rain and watch them for a while.
As we walk back to the hotel dodging the rain we catch sight of these locals taking advantage of the downpour in the runoff from the rooves.