Day 147 - 18 Nov Fri - Labuk Bay and the Kinabatangan River

We are here in Borneo for one reason - and that is orang utangs! However today we are in for another "primate encounter" with the indigenous proboscis monkey - only found on Borneo at the Labuk Bay Proboscis Monkey Sanctuary. We have seen these amazing creatures at a distance when we were on our Klias river cruise but this is our chance to see them more closely.

 

 Some years ago (1994), while embarking on Oil Palm Plantation development near the mangrove swamps of the present sanctuary, the owner of the site came to know of the proboscis monkeys living there. Fascinated, he learned more about the monkeys and their predicament. Few people in their quest for commercial gain would have paid much attention to the plight of these monkeys in their struggle for survival. However, for this owner, although the 400 plus acres of mangrove forest were initially bought for commercial development, the plan was quickly dropped so that these monkeys could continue to survive there without fear of losing their natural habitat. As the sources of the food for these monkeys had much dwindled, efforts were made to supplement the monkeys’ diet with fruits and water daily to ensure the conservation of these animals. This land continued for the last ten years and today overall groups of these monkeys totaling around 60 comes regularly for their meals to the two special viewing platforms.

 

The only place in the world where proboscis monkeys occur is the Island of Borneo in South-East Asia. And they are not even found throughout all of Borneo. They are forest-dwellers and limited mainly to coastal swamp forests next to large rivers. 

 

 Proboscis monkeys have large prominent noses. They have large, extended bellies, giving them the appearance of being permanently pregnant. The color of upper bodies of the monkeys are generally pale grayish-yellow to reddish brown. The fur on their upper back tends to be darker while the lower section of their body  are paler.

 

Proboscis monkeys have large prominent noses. They have large, extended bellies, giving them the appearance of being permanently pregnant. The color of upper bodies of the monkeys are generally in pale grayish-yellow to reddish brown. The fur on their upper back tends to be darker while the lower section of their body re paler. 

 

 Adult males have much larger nose than the female, the monkeys’ nose will swell and turns red when the monkey is excited or angry. Proboscis monkeys are also known as the “Dutchman Monkey”. 

We spend an amazing morning watching the monkeys at such a close range and are even treated to a spectacular male proboscis monkey territorial display as one of the largest males thunders onto our viewing platform slapping his hands and feet and making a tremendous noise.

 Tiegan is also dive bombed by the resident "tame" hornbill - who apparantly dislikes children and bald men! She is just as unimpressed with him as he appears to be with her!

 Our afternoon is spent on another wildlife adventure on the Kinabatangan River. The longest river in Sabah emerging high in the Crocker Range and travelling 560km down to its mangrove swamp estuary into the Sulu Sea on the East coast of Sabah. It is one of only two known places on Earth where 10 primate species can be found. This includes the Bornean Orang Utan, the Proboscis Monkey, Macaques, Maroon Langur and Bornean Gibbon, most of which are endemic to Borneo.

 We are not disappointed, as we get another close up view of Proboscis - only this time they are "in the wild"!

 Most spectacularly of all, in the failing light and with only this picture to show for it, our guide points out some movement in the top of the trees above us. This, we can see with the binoculars, is a real life, wild orang utang. Actually - it is a very emotional few minutes as we watch this magnificent creature building himself a nest for the night, so high in the branches, so huge and so amazing.  This is a very rare sight and we all feel very lucky as the boat turns towards the jetty passing a hornbill roost on the way.

 A final treat was the beautiful sunset over the river just as we reach the end of our trip - what an amazing day!

 

Day 146 17 Nov Thurs Kota Kinabalu to Sepilok

Today we leave Kota Kinabalu for a few days as we make the 6 hour drive across Sabah to the eastern town of Sepilok. Before we go Asa surprises us with a "Happy Holiday" cake which the girls eat for breakfast!

 

 We have a long and arduous drive across Sabah  towards Sepilok and up and through Kinabalu Park which is  home to Mount Kinabalu - Borneo's highest mountain. It is known to be one of the most accessible mountains in the world. as no specialized mountain climbing skills are required to ascend it. Sadly the peak is covered with cloud as we drive through the park, but we do get a feel for how high we are climbing in our little hire car as the air pressure thins and our crisp packets reach the point of bear explosion!

  Finally, after some eye wateringly bad roads, washed away in places, pot holed in others and just downright uneven for the most part we arrive in Sepilok and locate Paganakan Dii, our home in the jungle for the next few days.

  

Quite literally we are in the middle of a jungle - at times the noise from the surrounding wildlife is deafening - but quite beautiful! We are staying in a wooden hut on stilts, with views!

 Immediately the girls make themselves at home in the communal cafe area and we trade stories with the other guests.

Day 145 - Weds 16 Nov - Kota Kinabalu - Sabah Museum

Today we visit the Sabah Museum - Built in 1985, the Museum complex is sited where then British North Borneo Governor's Istana was once located. The Museum consists of the Main Building, Science and Education Centre, Heritage Village, Sabah Art Gallery and Museum of Islamic Civilization. Disappointingly - apart from a few quite sterile tribal clothing exhibits - most of the complex is undergoing refurbishment and not open to the public. We have brought Kiran along with us and he enjoys showing the girls the traditional longhouses in the Museum grounds.

It is ridiculously hot to be out and so we make for Jesselton Point for a sneaky ice cream before delivering Kiran home in time to get ready for his school "end of year" speech night concert in the evening which we all enjoy watching.

Day 144 Tues 15 Nov Klias River

Today we drive south of Kota Kinabalu towards the Klias River in the hope of spotting some wildlife on a river cruise. On the way we pass by the City Mosque  - built on a man-made lagoon, which creates a feeling that the mosque is floating above the water. The prayer room can accommodate up to 12.000 worshippers at one time and houses also three madrasah (religious schools). 

We also pass the larger Sabah State Mosque -  a masterpiece of architecture with dove-grey walls and glittering majestic domes with gold inlay. Up to 5000 worshippers can be inside at one time and it has become a popular place for visitors from all over the world. During prayer time Muslim women can visit the mosque as a special balcony is built that can fit 500.

These are just bonus items along the way as we still have a 2 hour drive ahead of us to get to "Klias River Base Camp"  with only a quick stop to enjoy the delicious picnic lunch prepared by the fabulous Asa.  We arrive, in the rain, and walk  the short distance from the road along the wooden covered walkway tinto a grass compound complete with  'Kampong' houses, built on stilts with bamboo walls and thatched palm leaf roofs and a large dining lounge over the river where we are given tea and "local" cake - which the girls decide must be radioactive. They do bravely sample but do not eat more than a nibble!

 

Safety first as we are issued with life jackets and make our way to the boat.

 

The Klias Wetland is the biggest wetland reserve in the state and is home to varieties of flora and fauna and we are not disappointed as we quietly make our way along the river.

We catch our first sights of Proboscis, silver leaf langurs and long tailed macaques perched high in the trees above the mangroves- sadly our cameras didnt have enough zoom to photograph these amazing primates but the girls are in "animal heaven" as we are treated to several sightings of each monkey.

We even spot a trio of hornbills flying over the river as the sun begins to dip - this apparantly is quite unusual.

We motor back to the lodge and have supper before donning life jackets again and venturing back onto the boat - this time in the dark. Fireflies are well known at the Klias River and we only had to travel for about 5 minutes before we stopped. Our boatman flashes his torch on  and off in the dark and suddenly we were in the midst of a sea of little lights. Virtually impossible to take pictures of the fireflies in the dark hence no pictures here.  An amazing sight with thousands of these little lit flies on several of the largest trees - turning them into huge Christmas Trees.

Day 143 Mon 14 Nov Kota Kinabalu - Lazy Monday!

  

We take the chance to visit the local produce market which runs along the harbour front and take in the sights and smells!

David has decided that we need to change our geriatric car to something a little better and so he heads back to the airport to organise this. We have planned to cross Sabah to visit Sandakan and Sepilok and this means a 6 hour drive across the mountains and Mount Kinabalu. Not something that either of us relished the idea of in the Kancil. He arrives back with a Perouda Mivi, still small, but it is a bit plusher, the air con works and it might actually make it to Sepilok rather than getting stuck half way!

Day 142 Sun 13 Nov Kota Kinabalu - Lazy Sunday!

 

Vinodh and Wendy kindly look after the girls, who stay home and play with Kiran and Jay, while Nicole and David head into town to book a couple of day tours for later in the week. We rendezvous later at the Yacht Club where there is a band and a bbq every Sunday night. The children play and swim in the little pool and explore the beach.