Thursday 27 October 2011

Day 103 Beijing 5 October Weds

We have considered long and hard about whether to attempt the Forbidden City for a third time arguing the case for and against in equal part. In the end we decide to have one last try, on the basis that we may not get another chance and we would regret not visiting. We hail an early taxi to avoid the metro and are dropped as near to the Meridian Gate as the driver knows and walk the rest of the way. We are again part of the 'National Week' masses but have (at least to begin with) avoided the crush by being at the gates at 8:30am and are met with a queueless ticket office. That is until David starts his discussions with the ticket officer and immediately three other pairs of hands all try to push him out the way, force money through the window and talk over him in Chinese with no sense of personal space or idea of a queue. That said we are in the Forbidden City within 15 minutes of arriving! It is breathtaking and relatively quiet and we are, at last, able to absorb the atmosphere. 
The Forbidden City was the Chinese imperial palace from the Ming Dynasty to the end of the Qing Dynasty. It is located in the middle of Beijing, China, and now houses the Palace Museum. For almost 500 years, it served as the home of emperors and their households, as well as the ceremonial and political center of Chinese government. The common English name, "the Forbidden City", is a translation of the Chinese name Zijin Cheng literally "Purple Forbidden City"  "Forbidden", referred to the fact that no-one could enter or leave the palace without the emperor's permission.  As we progress through the palace complex our early start is rewarded by space and time to look and wonder.
 
The Hall of Supreme Harmony is the largest, and rises some 30 metres (98 ft) above the level of the surrounding square. It is the ceremonial centre of imperial power, and the largest surviving wooden structure in China. It is nine bays wide and five bays deep, the numbers 9 and 5 being symbolically connected to the majesty of the Emperor.

This Bronze Incense Burner graces the courtyard in front of the Main Gracious Hall. Cast in red bronze, the burner has three stories and is 3.5 meters high. The design of many Chinese incense burners are heavily influenced by religious images, such as the Buddha or Chinese gods. Many people light incense burner holders in spiritual places, such as altars, temples and sacred places and pray while they are lit. 
   
On the terrace, which is luxuriously balustraded, a bronze crane and a bronze tortoise can be seen. They were placed there to expect everlasting rule and longevity. The crane lives 1,000 years and the tortoise 10.000, says a proverb. Both animals are symbols of longevity. The connection between a tortoise and a crane also dates back to China. The crane too was a symbol of Long Life and also the symbol of the relationship of Father and Son according to the Confucian philosophy. Furthermore the crane is a symbol of wisdom. When a high-ranking Taoist priest died, it was said he was "turning into a crane."
The Dragon Throne. As the dragon was the emblem of imperial power, the throne of the Emperor was known as the Dragon Throne - David and the girls didnt actually get to see this and Nicole is almost crushed trying to get into the doorway to photograph it over her head - not really knowing what she is photographing!

We stop to study some 19th century court robes displayed in a side room and when we emerge it is as if we have been suddenly transported to the other Forbidden City where the tours, groups and crowds are building up... Our bubble bursts and despite valiant efforts to block out the flags, megaphones and march of the Chinese we cut short our time and finishing with a  walk through the Palace Gardens at the far end of the grounds.

In each of the four corners of the garden there is a pavilion, symbolizing the four seasons. ThePavilion of Myriad Springs is the most famous and lies in the south east corner of the garden. It was built in 1535 and restored during the Qing dynasty. We make a hasty exit and a swiftly hail a  taxi to whisk us away from the madness. Such a shame... but it was amazing and worth the extra effort while it lasted.

We stop at the International Bookshop on Wangfujing Street so we can buy a couple of travel guides and some "school" type stuff for the girls. Amazing to see Tiegan breathe again and relax - she has been so uptight since arriving in China... surrounding herself with a pile of books she makes camp on the floor and enjoys a quiet half an hour of browsing. Rowan and David are also spotted with a pile of Asterix books! 

We return to Beixingiao (our metro stop) well and truly ready to leave Beijing. 
Bring on Xian!
 

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