Fri 19 Aug day 56 Our last day in New Zealand!

Our last full day in New Zealand and a bit of indigenous culture is on the agenda. We have been amazed at how little "Maori" we have been exposed to - almost as if it is suppressed in some areas - with only the stories and legends to explain geographical features or names of places being really evident. We head to the Auckland Museum and explore the Maori Galleries before watching a rather sterile but still good fun "Maori Cultural Experience" show - some traditional dances, songs, demonstrations of pastimes, explanations of language and most pleasingly the Haka!

The rest of the day was spent with the gorgeous Hannah and James (whom we met in Maqai, Fiji) who meet us at the Museum and whisk us off to show us a piece of "their" Auckland. The girls run at full pelt down the hill and greet them with enormous hugs and open arms. We cross to the North Shore and up the hill in Devonport before wandering along the beach in the sun collecting shells and llittle crabs along the way. The girls were SO excited to see them and we spend our time together talking non stop reminiscing about our experiences since we were last together.

The weather is glorious so after a quick stop to see James' house we drive to Mission Bay for an ice cream, a quick beer, a game of chess and a beautiful sunset. 

Supper is eaten at the mainly Asian Albert Street food court - where there is such a choice of  delicious, cheap and freshly cooked dishes and options we all struggle with what to choose! We say our sad goodbyes, it was a fantastic afternoon with truly lovely people.

We head back to the Jucy Hotel to pack away the cold weather clothes and prepare for the heat of Australia - flip flops here we come!

Thurs 18 Aug day 55 Auckland again!

Another day, another day out in the lovel, sunny  city of Auckland - rapidly becoming our favourite in New Zealand. This time to the Antarctic Centre founded by NZ polar explorer and ecologist Kelly Tarlton. We walk down to Quay Street and board the "subtle" shuttle bus which will transport us the 10 minute drive around the bay to the centre. Two highlights here - the stingray feed complete with a keeper in the tank feeding the 3 truly massive female fish and the snowcat ride (so good we went round twice!)  which took us into the penguin enclosure.

The tank holds 200,000 litres of salt water, is 3 metres deep and filled with 3 tonnes of snow every day. Computer controlled, simulating sunrise and sunset and seasonal climate conditions mimicking that of the natural environment in Antarctica - all essential to maintain breeding moulting cycles. Home to Gentoo and King penguins and complete with chicks, huge, fluffy, brown and flightless - but quite sweet!

   

  We get another amazing vista of the city of sails - boats of some description at every turn - as we leave the Antarctic Centre - the skyline dominated as always by the ever present SkyTower.

Wed 17 Aug day 54 Auckland

A sunny morning! At last! After a lie in (a rare thing for us!) and a bit of a sort out we head off to explore Auckland  strating with the Sky Tower - the tallest building in NZ and the tallest in the Southern Hemisphere. We travel in the lift up 53 floors to the top observation deck and tread gingerly on the glass viewing windows on the floor - actually the girls laid down on them - just the grown ups who were a bit timid!

We are rewarded with amazing views across the city; On a good day it is possible to see for over 80 miles. We are able to identify many key buildings and landmarks including Eden Park where many of the forthcoming rugby world cup games will be played and One Tree Hill and the Harbour bridge. Sadly it  is not possible to walk over the bridge. 

We also catch several adrenalin junkies throwing themselves off the top in a controlled  11 second "freefall" off the top!

The afternoon is spent wandering around the marina marvelling at the Americas Cup and super yachts and exploring the new precinct - Viaduct Basin - built and developed on waste ground in preparation for the forthcoming Rugby World Cup - a complex of shops, bars, cafes and restaurants. We are lucky enough to see the new footbridge open and close to allow boats in and out of their moorings close to the shore.

Tues 16 Aug day 53 Tairua Coromandel

Tairua is another pretty seaside town which we get an amazing view after another 20 minute  climb to the peak of  Mt Paka, we can also see the nearby Alderman Islands and Shoe, Slipper, Rabbit and Goat Islands. We drive further north to Hot Water Beach - where one can dig ones own hot pool in the sand, but sadly arrive at the wrong tide time for digging. The girls run on the beach and collect shells, we have a quick coffee and hot chocolate in the beach cafe and continue our journey on Highway 309. This is the only unsealed road we have travelled on in New Zealand and it twists and turns up and up across the Coromandel Peninsular. We are heading for Coromandel Town itself as we have heard it is a hub for arts, crafts and slightly alternative living. As we near the end of the unmade track the car is suddenly surrounded by what we initially recognise as pigs - on closer inspection they are definitely wild boar - although part of a farm and not truly wild. The girls shriek with delight as there are several of the tiniest piglets scampering around and for a while we cant progress any further as we are slightly concerned about running one over. The boar are inquisitive and investigate the car thoroughly squealing and snuffling before trotting back to their rooting around in the mud.

When we get to Coromandel it is raining and a bit of a ghost town. We are all disappointed as we were looking forward to an afternoon exploring. A grey, drizzly afternoon in a sleepy, closed up town is not what we had hoped and so we decide to head down the coast to Thames. By the time we reach the town, the rain is falling heavily and the first backpackers we try is closed, the second is freezing cold and empty and the third has just had all its's carpets ripped out and is undergoing renovation during the off season. With heavy hearts we press on to Auckland and after several phone calls including one answered "What do you want?!" (we avoid this one!) we end up at the Jucy. This is a cross between a hotel and a backpackers - but we have a Jucy rental car and as we will be there for 4 nights (our longest stay ever!) we manage to negotiate a very good deal. It also has the benefit of secure off street parking and is also central.

Mon 15 Aug day 52 Rotorua, more snow and Coromandel

We have to backtrack a bit today driving south to Wai o Tapu - the other thermal reserve which according to those in the know is better than the park we can see from our hotel room. The prime reason is the Lady Knox Geyser which spouts every day (with a little help) at about 10 am.

We are treated to four seasons in one day as the weather has turned again and a cold front is pushing up from the south. It is snowing! The guide tells us he has never ever seen snow in Rotorua and he has been here for 20 years. We watch the geyser spouting magnificently as the flakes fall around. There is a track to follow and we visit the many and varied ..... finishing with the "Devil's Bathtub" a luminous green pool, a completely natural phenomenon - Rowan describes it as a wizard's magical water!. A short drive takes us to the bubbling mudpools which we watch and listen to with much amusement as hot smelly mud belches and pops and squelches endlessly.

 







Our next destination is Te Puke - pronounced Tay Pookie (think cookie - not Luke!) to another odd NZ attraction. We have managed to avoid "Salmon World", "Troutland" and the "Prawn Park" on our travels but couldnt resist a quick stop off at "Kiwi 360" to view the enormous kiwi fruit and take part in a free tasting session of green and gold kiwi fruit. Sadly the orchard tour is not on as the trees are bare and we dont get the chance to ride in the kiwi fruit carriages!

 

We head north towards the Coromandel and rest our heads in Tairua at the Pinnacles Backpackers.

Sun14 Aug day 51 Rotorua ROWAN'S BIRTHDAY!

Rowi's Birthday! Hurray! At last the day has come - we have been plagued with the countdown to it since before we left the UK and are all pleased to have finally reached August 14th!  When we open the curtains we find to our surprise that the Silver Oaks Hotel overlooks one of the two geo thermal visitor parks in Rotorua - and we have a free and fantastic vantage point overlooking the famous Pohotu   geyser which spurts up to 30ft in the air throughout the day.

It is also another fantastic sunny morning. A real bonus! Everything seems so much better after a good nights sleep and a free continental breakfast and we console ourselves with the fact that we are actually only paying $20 more a night here than we have had to in some previous places and the fact that it is warm and there is a double bed for the grownups and singles for the girls. We have had many and varied sleeping arrangements along the way - single bunks, topping and tailing, bed base and mattresses to name but three! Rowan reads her birthday emails and cards and unwraps her few little gifts, bits and pieces which we have picked up along the way and which wont take up too much space. The best birthday surprise we save till last - a morning at the Luge - a massive and very fortunate discovery and also the one thing which we probably should have done when we were in Queenstown.
Rowan had asked at the time to do the luge runs(along with every other activity and day out on offer!)  but conscious of the cost we had said no - not realising until a few days later when she was drawing in her journal just how disappointed she was that we hadnt done it. A picture speaks a thousand words and when we asked what she was drawing she said "that's the luge that we didnt do" - promptly bursting into floods of tears! We hadnt realised that the same setup was in place on the North Island until we reached Rotorua and stumbled across it in the "What's on Guide". A real coup and a complete stroke of luck.

The best person to tell you about the day has to be Rowan herself so here is her journal entry for the day.
My birthday! I had birthday emails from Granny and Grandpa, Auntie Carol, Auntie Janet, Izzy and Mattie lots of presents. I had a kiwi keyring and a kinder egg and a NZ tshirt and IOU letters for ice cream out, cake out, birthday supper a new pair of pyjamas and a luge leaflet. We went to the luge for my birthday. I did not go on my own - I went with Daddy and it was sunny. It is a sledge with wheels that doesnt need snow it needs a track to move down quickly. We had lots of goes each. We had to wear helmets. We got to the top by a chair lift. When I went with Mummy  crashed and fell out and I hurt my knee.  Mummy tried her best in the day to make cakes. She made little buns with chocolate on top and they were sort of lemon flavoured. I had seven candles to blow out and Daddy, Mummy and Tiegan sang Happy Birthday to me. I chose new pyjamas at the shops. We saw the Pohutu geyser from the hotel window and it blew lots of steam and a water spout all through the day.We went our for birthday supper at the Bad Dog Cafe and I had pasta, garlic bread and an ice cream sundae.

Sat 13 Aug day 50 Taupo to Rotorua

We leave Taupo, but not before visiting the lake front and experiencing the geo thermal phenomenon of a hot beach! We head for the steaming shoreline and have giggle at the ducks enjoying a sauna and jacuzzi! We brave the chilly morning air and in true Brit style we take off our shoes and socks and go for a paddle.is a very odd sensation - burning ones feet on the gravelly lake beach, feeling hot water bubbling between the toes and then only a few inches away being in cold water again.

Our next stop is the Huka Falls. Here water surges through a narrow gut from Lake Taupo, NZ's largest lake and meets the longest river (Waikato) at the start of its 425km journey to the sea south of Auckland. Over time the water has carved a channel about 15 metres wide and 10 metres deep and hour after hour water churns towards the Huka Falls.  We watch for a while, deafened by the noise of rushing water before heading for the Aratiatia Dam a little way upstream. Aratiatia means a series of pegs stuck into a steep ascent in a zig zag pattern to make climbing easier.  The water used to flow freely down stream but is now controlled by a series of man made dam generating hydro electric power all the way to Auckland. The dam gates are lifted 3 times a day for 30 minutes filling the empty pools beside. We arrive in time to see the dam gates slide open and water rushing over the rocks, there are several viewing points along a track and we are able to watch the filling and then emptying process from different vantage points.  Then the gates shut the pools drain, a bit like pulling the plug out of the bath!

We make one last detour on today's travels to a little known, local geo themal pool used mainly by the locals - Butcher's Pool. It is located down a dirt track, in the middle of a farmer's field but there is a changing hut and safety fence and a sign board. The pool was gifted to the local community in 1927 by Mr Butcher, an early settler who arrived in 1894, purchasing 48,000 acres of land. At this time the hot pool was used by the family as a bath! For the second time in one day we disrobe and head towards the murky depths, treading carefully down the algae covered steps. The sun is shining - in fact we couldnt have asked for better weather - and the water is hot hot hot! It is too deep in the middle for the girls to stand up but there is a platform around the edge for them to sit on. Water fizzes and bubbles from the bottom which they say feels like ants crawling up their legs. Who needs expensive spa treatments?!

After lunch we head to Rotorua, the tourist capital of NZ and plan to spend a couple of days here so that  we won't have any driving or car time for Rowan's birthday. Sadly we have our worst evening yet trying to find accomodation. We find that the town has many events on this weekend and that much of the available bed space is taken. Either that or the backpackers are grottier than a grotty thing and not ok to spend Rowan;s birthday at. We spend 3 hours on the phone, driving around - jumping in and out of the car viewing rooms and at McDonalds using their free wifi to try and find somewhere to stay. As darkness falls we have all lost our sense of humour and harsh words are exchanged. We end up at the Silver Oaks - a hotel on the outskirts of town and have to head out for supper. Tired and grumpy we head back to the hotel and the girls sleep while Nicole wraps the present not realising the surprise we have in store for us in the morning.

Friday 12th August day 49 Napier to Taupo

The National Aquarium of NZ is in Napier -part of the reason for our visit here as there is a "Kiwi House". The girls are desperate to see kiwi - the national emblem of NZ - but as they are nocturnal and very hard to find in the wild, the only chance we have is to see them in captivity. The aquarium is right on the beachfront and seawater is pumped directly  to it's tanks. The oceanarium is viewed from an underwater tunnel and is home to sharks, lobster, seahorses and other native NZ fish. We arrive in time for the "fish feeding" and are treated to a real comedy show by the diver in the tank. He interacts with the audience, cuddling a lobster and playing golf with a rusty anchor.
The girls finally get to see the native kiwis - but sadly no pictures. Being nocturnal they are very susceptible to light and we are not allowed to take photos. The enclosure is strictly controlled, behind a glass screen and we have to remain still and quiet so as to catch a glimpse of these funny little flightless creatures - with their round body , coarse feathers, strong legs and a long distinctive bill. They are lovely to watch, really comical.
We head towards Lake Taupo, the largest lake in NZ and Blackcurrant Backpackers - stopping for lunch at the "Craters of the Moon" geo thermal area. It is raining again and as we eat we have several rounds of "shall we? shan't we?" do the 45 minute loop walk around the guided track. The rain stops and we head off. Unfortunately, within 5 minutes of the entrance gate, the heavens open and a family of 4 drowned rats continue their walking tour - distinctly unamused but reminding themselves that we have to make the best of the opportunities we have while we are here - despite the weather!

We follow the path which, as always we are discovering in NZ, is well maintained and well stocked with information boards along the way. Due to the excessive amount of rain the already steaming landscape is exceptionally steamy and at times we are caught in a  very dramatic "fog" unable to see each other on the path. There is a bit of an eggy whiff, but not that unpleasant! We pass by many bubbling pools along the way and are all amazed at the hiss of steam excaping from holes and cracks in the landscape.

Thursday 11th Aug day 48 Wellington to Napier

Today we leave Wellington and head to Napier, a longish drive, but we have heard it is a town worth a visit. An earthquake and fire in 1931 destroyed most of Napier, the quake raised marsh land and the harbour bed providing room for farmland and urban development. During the rebuild a strict earthquake building code was introduced and the majority of buildings constructed in the then fashionable "Art Deco" style with pastel colours, bold lines and beautifully carved motifs. Sadly however it is definitely a "seasonal" town and when we arrive is as quiet and sleepy as any place we have visited.

We head to town to find the ice cream parlour we have promised the children we will visit (a recommendation in the guide book) only to find it, along with the majority of other shops and cafes, closed.  Our impression of the area is not improved by the drizzle and rapidly plummeting temperature. The evening is spent in Archie's Bunker ( our backpackers) where we are the only guests - fortunately we have a TV/DVD player in our room (a real luxury) and we borrow a DVD to watch.

Wed 10 Aug day 47 Wellington

Wellington, the capital city of NZ and a compact city . We have a day of sight seeing ahead of us and decide to visit the National Museum of NZ - Te Papa Tongawera- loosely translated as "treasure box. The building dominates the Wellington waterfront and is set over 6 floors - far too much for us to see or take in in one visit. We decide to follow the children's tour. Starting with the geological and earthquake section. The girls enjoy the earthquake simulator and the "how to earthquake proof" your house interactive quiz. It is a really hands on museum and so much to see and try. We spend an hour or so in this section learning more about the natural history of the country and the girls enjoy tracing our journey on a huge interactive floor map.

The afternoon was spent riding one of Wellington's most famous attractions - the little red cable car which trundles and clanks up the steep slope from the harbourfront to Kelburn, through the university area and on to the Botanic Gardens. It was built in 1902 to link the hill suburbs to the city and at the top we have a fantastic view over the harbour and the city.

We wander through the Botanic Gardens and find a playground so the children can let off steam before heading off back to Base.

Tues 9 August day 46 Goodbye South Island - Hello North Isalnd

Today we leave the South Island and head to Picton to catch the Interislander Ferry across the Cook Strait to North Island. The journey from Kaikoura takes a little over an hour and we pass through the heart of NZ wine country and the Marlborough region. There are fields and fields of vineyards and wineries along the way offering free tastings and wine tours. Sadly we dont have the time to stop and explore further, or room to store any purchases!

We arrive at the ferry terminal to find boarding closed and the place deserted. David has a minor panic about ferry times before we realise that  we are over 2 hours early and have a long wait ahead. The barrier lifts after half an hour or so and we are checked in and allowed to drive around to the holding area. This is a roadway in the ferry terminal where we must sit and wait it out - not the best of locations as there are no loos, not much to look at and the vending machine is not working - atleast the sun is shining and we are the first car to eventually drive on to the boat though. The girls spend the time completing the free children's activity booklet which we were given at check in and we have a little time to start the usual phoning around for a place to stay.

 

Wierdly we have to sail south to get to North Island and the 3 hour crossing takes about 3 and a half hours. Our ferry is an ex cross channel ferry and all the signage on board is in English and French! There is a restaurant, cafe, gift shop and information centre as well as a family room with kids and adults TV and a cinema. We arrive in Wellingtonand hit the rush hour - although our drive is not very far. It feels strangely odd but a little refreshing to be in a big city again and the hustle and bustle of traffic and people rushing about their business.

We find our backpackers -Base - a chain hostel squarely aimed at the younger market, but also one of the cheapest and newest in town. It is ideally located in the "restaurant" partof the city and also for the museums and some of the sights we plan to visit. It is HUGE though- our room is on the 6th floor (of 7) and the kitchen on the 1st floor is equally enormous. There are several industrial size fridges, all full of blue, padlocked "cool bags" from "Countdown" - our supermarket of choice. Evidently in such a large and "young" backpackers there is a risk that ones supplies may disappear into the stomach of another guest - a reminder that we are once again in annoymous surroundings where not everyone is as honest as we have been used to. Fortunately we have padlocks and a blue bag!
We decide to treat the girls and head out for only our second meal out in NZ - we head for Cuba Street and a delicious, if pricey, pizza. Worryingly on our return there is a toga party in full swing in the bar below the accomodation floors!

Monday 8th August - Kaikoura and another awesome Handley adventure!

Kaikoura is located on a rocky peninsula, protruding from lush farmland beneath the mountains.   In Maori legend, Maui placed his foot on this peninsula to steady himself while he 'fished-up' the North Island and the name Kaikoura translates to 'meal of crayfish' (Kai - food, koura - crayfish), and it is crayfish for which the region has traditionally been famous. In the waters off the peninsula, a complex marine system provides an abundantly rich habitat for marine mammals and seabirds making it an ideal place for getting 'close to nature'. Our plan for today!.

In 1770 Captain Cook first discovered the Kaikoura peninsula, believing it to be an island. The first shore whaling station was established in 1843, located near where Fyffe House still stands today. Other whaling stations soon followed, and at one stage the industry employed over one hundred men in the Kaikoura district alone.   Whale numbers steadily declined after 1850 and the exportation of them became un-economic, leading whalers to turn to alternative means of existence, such as farming. Whaling continued sporadically until as recently as 1964 when the last of NZ' s whaling operations ceased.

Today, the emphasis in Kaikoura is the conservation of marine life, working with a sustainable tourist industry which allows visitors from all over the world to appreciate life in the ocean. In 1978, the Marine Mammal Protection Act was finally passed, providing total protection to New Zealand' s whales, dolphins and seals.  Kaikoura lies within the Southern Hemisphere Whale Sanctuary.

We meet at the "Whaleway Station" before boarding the bus for the 8 minute drive to the boat which will take us out to the deep water and the marine life we have come to see. Several different species of whale can be seen off Kaikoura at different times of the year, but almost always the huge Sperm Whales. 

The captain of the boat lowers a hydrophone into the water to trace any whales in the area

 

 

We are amazed by the truly awesome spectacle of sperm whales breaching and blowing plumes of water before diving down again to the icy depths. We get very close - and see two whales on our trip. However the highlight was the pods of spinner dolphins we encounter while waiting for our sperm whale to resurface. Literally hundreds of dolphins, leaping, splashing, diving and playing all within touching distance of our craft and it leaves all four of us with a feeling of wanting more and quite emotional. We promise ourselves that at the next opportunity we will swim with dolphins.  Another remarkable day - finished with fish and chips in the evening sunshine of Kaikoura.

Tomorrow we head for North Island.