Thursday 8 December 2011

Day 159 30 Nov Wed Mysore

We reach Mysore in the early morning (around 5am) - sadly no animals as the hills are too misty as we pass. We walk the short distance to the hotel and settle in before heading to the balcony restaurant for an early breakfast.  It is said that if you havent been to Mysore you havent been to South India - it is an ancient city with 600 years of history. It is one of the most flamboyant places in India and know for its glittering royal heritage, bustling markets, many monuments and cosmopolitan culture. It is also a thriving centre for sandalwood and silk production which it markets globally.


 Amongst the grandest of  India's royal buildings is our first stop and we head off to explore the beautiful Mahrajah's Palace - Sadly the original wooden building was destroyed by fir in 1897 and the one on show now is the 1912 building by the English architect Henry Irwin. We comission the services of a local guide who explains the most important and interesting features  of the building - sadly no cameras allowed inside and unlike the Cochin Palace we are scanned and security to checked and almost frisked to ensure that we are not carrying photographic equipment. Ironically once inside there doesnt seem to be any limitation on phones being used as cameras, which is slightly galling to those of us that have complied with the rules! The whole building is a combination of Hindu, Islamic and English styles - a real kalaidecope of stained glass, mirrors,and bright colours - very over the top! The interior decor is also hugely embellished, every piece of timber and stone work is elaborately carved and there are beautiful crystal thrones, murano glass dressers and enoromous silver panelled doors. There is also a series of murals depicting life in Mysore in the time of the Edwardian Raj, spookily some are painted in 3D and 2D which has the effect that no matter where you stand to admire the art works the eyes, animals heads and shoes all point towards you. All however are painted in terrific detail and are truly breathtaking. Also within the grounds are a collection of bronze sculptures - most by English and Scottish artists and the girls take a real shine to one of the six jaguars placed around the outside prominentory. 


 
 
 We are all "palaced out" for one day and also slighty jaded after the night bus so we opt for an easier return journey to the hotel!


 In the late afternoon we wander into the town to the Devaraja Market - a lively bazaar that combines the ancient and modern face of India.
It is about 125 years old and contains 15 million flowers, fruits and vegetables. Local traders make and sell traditional items such as flower garlands and there are bags of spices and conical piles of kum kum - coloured powder used for bindi dots, painting and dye.
 
 
 We wander down the little lanes and get swept along by the hustle and bustle of such an interesting place - the girls naturally get all the attention and are presented with fruit and flowers and lots of conversations along the way. Cows wander through and munch on the rubbish and no one turns a head! Every piece of fruit and vegetable is carefully displayed and beautifully presented and everything is available to try before you buy! Tiegan samples the most pith free and delicious pomegranate we have ever seen and it is expertly prepared for us by the stall owner.
 
We also get to smell some of the locally produced essential oils! Sniff tastic!
 



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