Sunday 18 December 2011

Day 173 14 Dec Wed AGRA

We arrive in Agra at a ridiculous time and share a farcical taxi ride with some fellow travellers (our first Portuguese in 6 months). Having assured us that he knew the Hotel Sheela at the East Gate of the Taj Mahal - we pass the hour from 2.30 AM touring the back streets of Agra in the vain hope of stumbling across the right place. In the end the driver wakes a sleeping doorman of another hotel and gets directions - moaning bitterly for most of the journey. We all fall into bed, bleary eyed and cold, but grateful to have finally reached the hotel!

We are in Agra for one reason - and one reason only - the same reason as most of the other annual 2 million visitors through its; gates - The Taj Mahal. In truth there is really nothing else to see in Agra (with the exception of the Red Fort) and here, as in Khajuraho, we are beseiged by touts almost as soon as we have stepped out of our hotel room door- bizarrely they seem to be doing a very hard sell on fridge magnets!! We manage to resist the urge to stock up and locate the ticket office (a kilometre away from the gate) and board the electric golf cart which shuttles us to the entrance. Only non polluting vehicles are allowed within a few hundred metres of the building since the restoration project of 2002.
 

The Taj Mahal complex is bounded on three sides by crenellated red sandstone walls, with the river-facing side left open and we enter through the main gateway, a monumental structure some 30m high, its' archways mirroring the shape of the tomb's archways, and its pishtaq arches incorporating the calligraphy from the Qu'ran that decorates the main tomb. It is through this arch that we get our first sight of the magnificent  and truly breathtaking wonder of the world that is the Taj Mahal - glistening against the beautiful clear blue sky and reflected in the watercourse which stretches along the length of the formal garden in front.

The Taj Mahal is widely recognized as "the jewel of Muslim art in India and one of the universally admired masterpieces of the world's heritage."  The truly breathtaking white marble mausoleum built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal who died giving birth to his 14th child. Legend has it that he was so heartbroken that his hair turned grey overnight.  In 1983, the Taj Mahal became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While the white domed marble mausoleum is the most familiar component of the Taj Mahal, it is actually an integrated complex of structures. The construction began around 1632 and was completed around 1653, employing  around 20,000 artisans and craftsmen.
It sits on a raised marble platform with its back to the Yamuna River and 40 m high (purely decorative) minarets grace each corner. After three centuries they are not quite perpendicular, but may have been designed to lean slightly outwards so that in the event of an earthquake they would fall away from the precious Taj.
We cant resist taking this photo! 


As we walk towards the main structure we notice these chaps mowing the lawn - not quite sure why the mower needed pushing and pulling... but they seemed to be making heavy work of it!
 
The main structure is made of semi translucent white marble which actually sparkles in the sunlight, carved with flowers and inlaid with thousands of semi precious stones in beautiful patterns. The perfectly symmetrical building, there are four identical faces, featuring vaulted arches with verses from the Qu'ran in inlaid jasper and topped with four small domes surrounding the famous central dome.
 
It is a truly breathtaking and awesome place and another "Handley Adventure WOW moment"! 
We reluctantly say our goodbyes to this marvellous place, take one last look back and then enjoy the sunset and a rooftop beer overlooking the Taj complex.
 
Travelling doesnt get much better than this...



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