Varanasi, situated on the banks of the River Ganges and regarded as a holy city by Hindus, Buddhists and Jains. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and probably the oldest in India. According to legend, the city was founded by the Hindu deity Lord Shiva, several thousand years ago, thus making it one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the country and one of the holiest places in India, where pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi, previously named Benares and Kashi (City of Light) – it was renamed after the Varuna and Asi Rivers, which meet here – has always been an auspicious place to die, since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). The city also has a sizeable native Muslim population, it hosts the Roman Catholic Diocese of Varanasi, and has a significant Jewish expatriate community. Varanasi is home to numerous tribal faiths which are not easily classified and many denomination of the religions which are present.
Varanasi's "Old City, " the quarter near the banks of the Ganges, has crowded narrow winding lanes that are flanked by road-side shops and scores of Hindu temples. As atmospheric as it is confusing, Varanasi's labyrinthine Old City is rich with culture, and a deservedly popular destination for travellers and tourists alike.
Varanasi has nearly 100 ghats. Many of the ghats were built when the city was under Maratha control. Most are bathing ghats, while others are used as cremation sites (we see one of the smallest at a discreet and respectful distance - only stopping to marvel at the huge piles of wood stacked along the top of the ghat and the enormous scales used to weigh each log so that the precise cost of cremation can be calculated - each type of wood has it's own price and sandalwood is the most expensive. Most ghats are associated with legends or mythologies while many ghats are now privately owned. All are fascinating places to "people watch" and are again a surreal mix of those who have come to the Ganges for a ritual bath, wash clothes, do yoga, offer blessings, sell flowers, wash their buffaloes, play cricket, improve their karma by giving to beggars or just to hang around. All of which we witness as we wander along the ghats from Assi Ghat to Dasawarmedh Ghat - the liveliest and most colourful. It is possible to do this for most of the year apart from during the monsoon when the waters rise and cover the steps.
In the evening we get a different perspective as we board a small row boat and head back towards Dasawarmedh to watch the (nightly) 'ganga aarti' (river worship)ceremony - an elaborate ritual display with puja (literally - respect, offering or prayers), fire and dance.
The river is amazingly quiet as we drift downstream towards the bright lights and ferociously loud music at the main ghat. Here we are one of many little craft and the crowds onboard some of the larger boats look quite unsafe.
We buy some floating candle and flower lights and each make our own prayer and wish before setting them adrift to join the hundreds of others already making their journey on the sacred Ganges.
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